Mocassin Construction

Single, Double and Triple Vamp Construction

The Single Vamp illustration shows the basic true moccasin construction — which is the only way a moccasin can be made to be a genuine moccasin. Note the continuous piece of leather (the vamp) which forms a sort of “hammock” to adjust itself comfortably to the shape of the foot. The main reason for a double vamp is to keep out water. No moccasin leather boot does a better job of this than Russell. Silicone treatments fall far short because a needle hole is still a hole — and water will get through. Russell’s double vamp construction blocks water passage through all needle holes and seams. The cut away Triple Vamp clearly illustrates the foot surrounded by three layers of leather with no two seams facing one another. Water penetration is completely blocked. Before the outer molded sole is sewn on a rubber or leather midsole is attached but the stitching to attach it is blocked by the smooth inner vamp. Various outersoles (depending upon the style) are then attached.


It takes many years of training for a Russell bootmaker to acquire the skills necessary to construct a genuine pair of moccasin boots or shoes. And there is a good reason for this: all true moccasin construction is a far more intricate process than normal bootmakers care to contend with. The resulting product is more comfortable...more durable...and more satisfying to wear than any conventional pair of boots or shoes you will ever own. Not only are Russells made in the true moccasin style, they are hand sewn by master craftsmen who must be consistent with every stitch they make. Each pair of Russell boots and shoes is hand lasted, meaning, leather is stretched over a last like this one, that conforms to the shape of your foot. Your shoe or boot is built around the last. Your foot is cradled all around and under foot by up to three layers of the finest leather. A Russell boot or shoe will mold itself to the exact shape of your foot and toes for unparalleled comfort. At each stage of the production cycle, pairs of boots and shoes are attended to in various hand operations, making mass production methods impossible at Russell.One of the amazing benefits of this extra work, hand lasting and true moccasin construction is that bones in your feet and your toes can move independently and freely as they were intended to. Your foot is not “constricted”. The need to “break in” conventional shoes is the result of pressure points being applied to your foot. True moccasin construction, combined with custom made to measure Russell techniques, results in boots and shoes that can literally be worn right out of the box.

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